How to Sharpen the Blades on a Chainsaw

!9#: How to Sharpen the Blades on a Chainsaw

You may think that once you have bought your chainsaw, the real work is about to begin. That may be true but it's not only in the garden or your lawn that you will need to think about the tough work. Chainsaws often need maintenance and while you may not be familiar with this work, it's important that you become comfortable with it. Sharpening the blades of the chainsaw is important because it will not only save you time and effort when going to do the big jobs, but it can also keep you safe from injury too.

The first thing you will need to know when sharpening the blades of your chainsaw is the size of your saw's chain. This is because you will need to buy a rotary grindstone or a chainsaw file to sharpen your blade and these are sold in different sizes, corresponding to the different sizes of chainsaw blades.

The chain then needs to be cleaned thoroughly. There are many cleaners that can be purchased for this purpose but if you find them too costly, a simple mineral water will also do the job well. It's important that when you're cleaning your chain that you do not saturate any part of the chainsaw. This is because it can get into the plastic housing of the unit or the motor, and can cause a lot of damage to these parts. As you're cleaning your chain, look for parts that are broken or damaged. These parts can't be repaired but having them fly off while the chainsaw is in use is extremely dangerous. Any broken pieces of the chain should be immediately taken off and replaced with new bits.

Sharpening the blades of a chainsaw means that the chainsaw needs to be stable and supported. Laying the chainsaw on a flat surface may be all that the chainsaw needs to get this done by clamping it in a vice so that the blade remains perfectly still is the best option. Next, you need to find the leading cutter, which is the shortest cutter on the blade. Some chainsaws don't have a leading cutter, leaving all the cutters the same length. If this is the case, the filing can begin anywhere however it will make it easier if you can lightly mark the first cutter that you filed so that you don't re-file it.

The file can then be placed into the space on the front of the cutter. This is the first tooth that lays flat against the chain and the file should be just about even with the tooth once it's placed inside the empty notch beside the tooth. Then, holding the file at the same angle as the tooth, gently slide the file in a twisting motion. This will ensure that anything you are filing off will not fall to the inside of the blade. You can then do this with every tooth on that side of the blade. After one side is finished, the chainsaw can be turned around so that the unfiled teeth on the other side can also be filed. These teeth will be angled differently than the teeth on the other side so be sure to adjust your blade file as well.

How to Sharpen the Blades on a Chainsaw

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Six Steps to Thoughtful Wooden Handcrafted Gifts That Are Fun to Make and a Joy to Give

!9#: Six Steps to Thoughtful Wooden Handcrafted Gifts That Are Fun to Make and a Joy to Give

There is a no better time than during these strained economic times to consider handcrafting wooden games, toys or furniture for your family or as gifts. Recall a simpler time when we were young and created our own amusements by using our imaginations and hands to transform simple objects into playful implements or games. Gosh, I still have and use some of the things we made with our Dad in his basement workshop or garage back in Cape Breton - a periscope, wooden toolbox, marble board game. At 15 years I built that water wheel and the well replica for our garden. Mom and Dad loved it.

Consider the pleasure and sense of pride you will have when you create a gift from your own hands. And think of the pleasure you will bring to someone special. Someone for whom you took the time to craft a special wooden piece.

With a few simple hand tools and maybe a basic power tool, you can transform those ideas in your head to some very unique woodworking projects. With a little planing you could build these wooden creations right in your apartment, at your kitchen table or in your garage or basement. Covering your work area with some plastic drop-sheets or a tarpaulin and having a vacuum for cleanup opens up the possibilities of using your kitchen or dining room table for small woodworking projects.

Planning and measuring:

- On a piece of paper design your project (rough picture) and then measure it out on a rough piece of wood so you can get some kind of visual of how it will look

or

- buy a template plan that simply has you tape together the pieces of paper, lay it out on the board and simply mark then cut or drill as indicated. This is a simple way to ensure project accuracy and repeatability when you are making more than one of the same project.

Cutting the wood:

- Cut with handsaw, circular saw, table saw or miter saw

or

- Have them cut it to size at your building supply store. For a few extra dollars I have Home Depot cut my plywood to project size. Now I don't have to get out the table saw and deal with the sawdust clean-up that results.

Rounding corners and edges:

- Use a jigsaw and router

or

- With a straightedge or paper template, mark and trim the four corners with a handsaw or hand jigsaw and then, with a block and pieces of sand paper (coarse grit), round and shape the corners and edges

Drilling Holes:

- use a drill and wood bits (a drill is likely the first hand power tool you will buy)
No real alternative for a good drill and bits

Fastening the pieces together:

- No Nails Glue (This stuff seems to hold anything to anything!) - may require some clamps or weights to keep your project together during the 24 hour drying period

- Screws with wood glue (using the drill to pre-drill holes to avoid wood splitting and the screw bits to easily sink the screws)

- A small square will help ensure your corners remain square during assembly

Finishing the surface:

- poly fill or wood fill or wooden plugs will be need to cover the countersunk screws

- You will need coarse to fine sandpaper. Coarse sandpaper to deal with smoothing the edges and finer sandpaper to finish the surfaces in preparation for a wood finish to be applied.

- Go with natural wood finishes like polyurethane, lacquers and wood oils. Let the natural wood grains display all their splendor.

- Stain and paint first. Then finish with a polyurethane to make the surface more durable

You can be a talented woodworking carpenter with a few simple tools:

- measuring tape and pencil

- straightedge and/or square

- handsaw

- hand jigsaw

- power drill, drill bits and screw bits (this is the first power tool you should own) OR a versatile Dremel, which has a wide variety of attachments

- sand paper block (a piece of 2x2 or 2x3 wood) and sandpaper

- good quality paint brushes (clean and spin dry after each use and they will last for years)

Now, more than ever, is the time to unleash your woodworking talent and handcraft wooden treasures like toys, games and furniture. In the land of wooden handcrafts the recipients smile is the true gift of receiving.

Six Steps to Thoughtful Wooden Handcrafted Gifts That Are Fun to Make and a Joy to Give

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Makita LXFD01CW Compact Cordless Drill

!9#: Makita LXFD01CW Compact Cordless Drill

The Makita LXFD01CW Cordless Drill is an 18 volt compact lithium ion drill that has a built in 4 pole motor that delivers 480 in lbs of torque. It's also got a varied 2 speed metal transmissions for a wide variety of projects. This cordless drill comes with an ergonomic design with a non-slip grip to reduce slippage. There is even a built in LED light to light up the work area in tight spaces. The Makita LXFD 01CW Cordless Drill weighs only 3.3 pounds to reduce hand fatigue.

This Makita Cordless Drill has a lithium-ion battery that is EnergyStar rated that offers a 15 minute rapid recharge. The rapid recharger produces 430% total lifetime work with 2.5 times more cycles than regular NiCAD batteries. It comes with two lithium-ion batteries, a 15 minute rapid recharger, a hard shell tool case and even a tool belt clip so you can carry it with you and have hands free. This Makita LXFD01CW Drill has a 3 year warranty on the drill and a 1 year warranty on the battery and charger.

Makita LXFD01CW Cordless Drill Features and Specifications:

* Makita LXFD01CW Cordless Drill includes 18V compact lithium-ion batteries
* 15 minute rapid recharger
* Hard shell tool case
* Tool belt clip
* LED light built in to light up the work area

The Makita LXFD01CW Drill didn't stack up to the test as well as the Dewalt drills did. Overall it got a 3.5 out of 5 stars and a few user complaints. One guy commented that the batteries for all of the Makita drills are not interchangeable. You have to have the special 18V battery for this specific Makita LXFD01CW Drill. Yet he said the performance of the drill was outstanding. Another guy commented on the longevity of the drill, he's had it for a long time and it's been very durable. He liked that it was small and lightweight yet powerful enough to handle any task.

Some other people commented on the power of the drill but one guy said that the bits were spinning with a slight wobble. He thought the chuck head had something wrong with it, but then he saw other reviews complaining about the same wobbling. Another user had the older version of the Makita drill and upgraded to the Makita LXFD01CW Drill. He said that there has been many improvements to this new drill from the old one.

Makita LXFD01CW Compact Cordless Drill

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Dremel 4000-2/30 120-Volt Variable Speed Rotary Tool Kit

!9# Dremel 4000-2/30 120-Volt Variable Speed Rotary Tool Kit

Brand : Dremel | Rate : | Price : $71.99
Post Date : Nov 26, 2011 14:57:08 | Usually ships in 24 hours

Dremel 4000 High-Performance Rotary Tool The 4000 variable speed rotary tool offers the highest performance and most versatility of all Dremel rotary tools. The increased strength of its motor plus electronic feedback circuitry delivers consistent performance at all speeds. Slim ergonomic body provides a 360-degree grip zone for control in any position. Separate on/off switch and variable-speed dial allows convenient speed adjustment and maintains your selected speed. Uses all Dremel accessories. (Mexico) Features: Quick collet lock for fast accessory changes Pencil grip close to bit Replaceable motor brushes for longer motor life Rotary Tool, 30 Accessories, 2 Attachments, Carrying Case (4000-2/30)

• Variable Speed from 5,000 to 35,000 RPM. Easy to understand speed dial features
• Soft grip for comfort and control
• Works with standard attachments plus "high performance" level attachments
• Variable speed also features electronic feedback for consistent power at lower and mid-range speeds
• Replaceable motor brushes

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You Can Build Your Own Circular Saw Table

!9# You Can Build Your Own Circular Saw Table

Since circular saws are the portable version of a table saw, they are not meant to be fixed to a table. However, the portability can be a disadvantage if you are trying to make precision cuts such as miters or other angles. To help you make more accurate cuts, you can build a circular saw table in your own shop.

Step 1

Gather your materials which include a 3/4" thick medium density overlay (MDO) in a 36"X16" sheet, a 36"X8 1/2" piece, a 36"X1" piece, and two 36"X1 1/2 " pieces, a pencil, ruler, jigsaw, eight strips of 1"X2" wood, nails, hammer, drill, 1/4" and 1/2" drill bits, screws, circular saw, 1/2" dowel, speed square, and 1/4" carriage bolt.

Step 2

Mark the midpoint 3/4" in from the edge on the long side of the 36"X16" MDO.

Step 3

Using the ruler, mark a radius from this midpoint on that front edge. Next, draw a straight line 10 inches from and parallel to the back edge.

Step 4

To cut out the table that you just marked, use the jigsaw to cut down the 10" line, around the radius, and down the 10" line on the other side. You now have the shape of the table.

Step 5

Flipping the table to its back, nail six strips of the 1"X2" wood to all of the straight edges as the support for the table.

Step 6

Go back to the original midpoint mark on the topside and drill a 1/2" hole in which the dowel will be placed to serve as the pivot for the arm.

Step 7

Down from the hole on this topside, attach two more 1"X2" strips 10 inches long to serve as the fence for the guide.

Step 8

Take the two pieces of MDO that are 36"X1 1/2" and cut a 45-degree angle off of each end. With the angles facing inward, screw these two pieces onto the ends of the 36"X8 1/2" piece of MDO. This makes the carriage with spacers.

Step 9

Screw the 36"X1 1/2" MDO to the edge of the 36"X4" MDO at a 90-degree angle to create a guide lip. Attach this assembly to the support blocks of the carriage with screws. To make the opposite side of the guide, screw the 36"X2" MDO to the other side of the carriage. The circular saw's blade should pass through the gap as it follows the guide lip, but you may need to adjust the gap width for your particular saw.

Step 10

Now, with the saw against the guide lip and the blade in the gap, fix an opposite lip to keep the saw straight as it passing through the carriage by screwing on a 36"X1" strip of MDO on the opposite side.

Step 11

Flip this carriage over and measure down 7 inches from the top edge. Mark the midpoint of the width at this point and drill a 1/2" hole for the dowel.

Step 12

Removing the upper part of the carriage, place the base under the table and tap the 1/2" dowel through both the table and carriage, not allowing the dowel to stick out past the carriage blocks. Then, reattach the upper part of the carriage.

Step 13

Slide the carriage arm as far right as possible. Putting the speed square between the arm and the fence at a 45-degree angle, drill a 1/4" hole through the upper assembly and tabletop to secure the arm with a carriage bolt. Do the same at the 90-degree and 45-degree left angle to make repeated angle cuts.

Your circular saw table is ready to use. Place the wood to be cut against the fence. Line up the arm to the angle that you want. Put the circular saw in the guide arm with a depth set so that you will only cut 1/8" into the table. Make your cut. You can now make accurate angle cuts time after time with your circular saw table.

You Can Build Your Own Circular Saw Table

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The Best Drill Press For Your Workshop

!9# The Best Drill Press For Your Workshop

A drill press can drill holes onto an exact depth. This tool works with pulleys and belts. A motor drives the pulley and belts to spin the quill and chuck. The chuck holds the bit. When the lever is pulled down, the bit will drop onto the wood.

A drill press has two main types: the bench top and the floor model. It comes with motors of ¼ to 1 horsepower with a 5 to 12 speed setting. Mortise-machine-like function is achieved when a spindle sander and pocket hole machine are attached.

Four of the best drill presses that became the best sellers of all time include the:
1. Delta 14-651 Professional Bench Top Mortising Machine (9-9)
2. Craftsman Professional 17 in. Drill Press (9)
3. Jet JBM-5 / 708580 Benchtop Mortiser (9) and
4. the Cummins Industrial Tools 5 Speed - Bench Top Drill Press (.99-.99).

Delta 14-651 Professional Bench Mortising Machine
Delta 14-651 1/2-HP Bench Mortising Machine became one of the most honored brands in woodworking tools that offers more precision at ½ horsepower motor. It has a cast iron base (16-3/4-by-13-1/2-inch) and a gas-filled head stabilizer.

Other features include:

o Multi-position hand lever
o A rack-and-pinion system that raises and lowers the head.
o Head column that swings 180 degrees
o Single phase induction motor
o Easy open access to drill chuck
o Adjustable dovetail
o Magnetic starter
o Easy bit and chisel changing
o 3/8 inches capacity chuck and key
o Weight: 77 pounds
o Diameter: 3-3/4 in. (95 mm)
o 2-year warranty

The set includes 1/4, 3/8, 5/16 and 1/2-inch chisels and bit sets; along with a tool and chisel tray, a gas-filled head stabilizer and multi position feed lever.

Craftsman Professional 22901 Drill Press
The Craftsman Professional 22901 is a 17-inch drill press that includes a single-arm quill handle. This enables easy presetting and repetitive drilling operation. It has a state-of-the-art column mounted on laser attachment that delivers pinpoint accuracy.

Other features include:

o Drill bit replacement.
o Battery powered
o 4-7/8 inches of quill stroke capacity power
o 16 spindle
o 3/4 hp 115/230-volt motor
o large cast iron table for expandable work support
o column-mounted laser
o adjustable work lamp
o Push button industrial style switch
o Tool tray and extension table

Jet 708580 JBM-5 1/2 Horsepower Bench Mortiser

The Jet 708580 is an affordable benchtop mortiser which was designed to take up to ½ in. chisel bits. It runs with a ½ horsepower induction motor. This tool weighs 44 pounds, is easily maneuvered and reverses on its base, allowing a long stock mortising. Bits are easily changeable by flipping the steel to open the door on each side. The Jet 708580 allows a carpenter to create good looking tennon joints.

Product Details:

o Made with cast-iron and steel
o 4 3/4-inch head stroke, 1/2-inch chisel capacity
o Quick-setting depth stop
o Four predrilled mounting holes
o Removable safety toggle switch
o Long and multi-position splines
o Includes a mortiser, three bits, chuck key
o 2-year limited warranty

Cummins Industrial Tools 5 Speed - Bench Top Drill Press
The Cummins 5 Speed is important to have in every workshop. It has 5 quick-change speed settings. The tool has a long quill for mortising. Its drilling depth is adjustable, stopping the quill positively. Cummins bench top drill presses have an adjustable table that tilts left and right, for an angled drilling operation.

Technical Details:

o ½ in. drill chuck
o Press height: 22 ½ inches
o Quill travel - 50 millimeter
o Sturdy 11 in. x 7 in. base
o 1/2 Horsepower
o Power: 60 Hz ,120 V, 2.4 amperes
o Table size 6 3/8 in. x 6 3/8 in.
o No load speed 760-3070 rpm
o 3 prong plug
o UL listed

Other known brands of drill presses include the following:

o Wilton
o Fisch Precision Tools
o Tradesman
o Dremel
o Milwaukee
o Grizzly, etc

Featured above the top-selling modern drilling tools. Consider the versatiliy of the tool you are looking to buy.

The Best Drill Press For Your Workshop

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Charlotte Arts - Wayland Cato, III Glass Artist

!9# Charlotte Arts - Wayland Cato, III Glass Artist

Glass Artist

Charlotte Arts - Wayland Cato, III Glass Artist

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Pet Health - Dog Trimming Nail Tips

!9# Pet Health - Dog Trimming Nail Tips

First of all, untrimmed nails cause a lot of problems including broken nails, which are very painful and can bleed profusely. Long nails cause the dog to walk incorrectly and adds undo strain to their legs. They may find it uncomfortable to put their full body weight on their feet with the overgrown nails, causing sore feet, legs and hips. This can lead to development of arthritis and disfiguration.

A lot of owners bring their pets to the vet or a groomer. This can be a very stressful experience for the dog, because there isn't any time to make sure the dog is calm and comfortable. Sometimes, restraint is necessary by using a muzzle and holding them in place. This by no means will make the experience a positive one and so the answer lies with you doing it yourself.

For me, the most important part of this process is to be calm yourself. If you are not then, don't attempt to cut their nails as this will cause a negative experience and they won't forget this either.

Before the Trim:

Exercise your dog. It releases all kinds of pent up energy and allows your best friend to be more pliable. Make sure your dog is already tolerating your touching his paws. While playing or TLC time just keep on touching their paws to make it a very natural thing. Let them smell the tool you are going to be using to trim their nails. Bring a bag of small treats to further entice them. Your demeanor must be of peace and calm. They will sense all your moods so make sure you are peaceful and calm or no matter what you do it will not work. Check yourself first and proceed from there. Dogs can pick up on your stress so be confident and secure before cutting.

Here are 2 Trimming Tools:

1. Clipper Tool
2. Dremel style tool

Trimming nails with clippers

Keep these sharp as dull ones will cause more harm than good. There are 2 different styles to choose form: scissors style and guillotine style.

The guillotine-style clipper has a stationary ring guide through which the toenail is placed, and when the handles are squeezed a cutting blade moves across to slice the nail. Scissors-style clippers are positioned at a right angle to the nail with one blade on either side; squeezing the handles moves both blades together to cut the nail.

You need to avoid cutting the quick, which is the name for the blood vessels and nerves that supply the nail. Cutting the quick can cause bleeding and considerable pain for the dog (and will likely undo much of the work you have put into getting your dog to relax for paw handling!) It is far better to cut small bits off of the dog's nails and do it more frequently than to try cutting too much and running the risk of hitting the quick.

Rewarding the dog after cutting a few nails works really well. This creates a wonderful experience for the dog. Being frustrated or stressed will cause more harm than good. Keep trying until you and your dog have a routine. Belly rubs are acceptable ways of getting them to relax and will of course, relax you as well.

Trimming nails with a Dremel-style rotary tool:

The most important step is to make your dog comfortable. Let him smell and be with the instrument while it's turned off until he is comfortable and then, work with him while it's turned on. Make it a positive experience. If your dog has very long nails it is better to do more frequent grindings of small amounts at first. You can then, plan twice-weekly times and take off a little bit at a time until nails are within the length you want. Make a schedule based on these time tables.

Tips:

o Keep Styptic powder on hand to have in case you do nick the quick and need to stop the bleeding.
o Keep on hand plenty of treats

Pet Health - Dog Trimming Nail Tips

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How to Select the Best Router Bit

!9# How to Select the Best Router Bit

Sorting through router bit terminology and making selections from a seemingly endless variety can be confusing, especially if you are new to working with a router. Reading up on the basic facts will help you to choose the best router bits, and to make the best use of them.

There are numerous types, including many designed for highly specialized applications. We won't be able to cover every type in this article, but here are some of the most common:

Straight Router Bits

Straight router bits are among the most common frequently used. Straight bits used to make cuts straight down into a material to form a groove or dado or to hollow out an area for a mortise or inlay. They come in a variety of cut diameters, most commonly in the range from 3/16" to 1-1/2".

Rabbeting Router Bits

Rabbeting router bits produce a straight vertical and horizontal cut, and are designed specifically to cut a rabbet (notch) in the edge of a material. Rabbeting is an example of a "piloted" bit, meaning that a bearing of the top of the bit is used to guide that along the edge of the material. Rabbeting bits usually come in a set that includes a range of pilot bearing diameters, allowing a single one to produce a variety of rabbet dimensions.

Flush Trim Router Bits

Flush trim router bits are guided by a pilot bearing that is the same size as the bit's cutting radius. They're used to trim the edge of one material flush with the edge of another material. Trimming a veneered surface flush with a substrate, or using a pattern to create multiple identical shapes are examples. The pilot bearing may be on the top of the bit, at the base of the cutting edge, or both.

Chamfer Router Bits

Chamfer Router Bits produce a bevel cut at a given angle. Chamfer's are sometimes used to decorate the edge of a material, and can also be used in joinery to create beveled edges for multi-sided constructions.

Edge Forming Router Bits

Edge forming router bits are most often used to cut a decorative edge into a material. The variety of edge
forming profiles are practically unlimited, but some of the most common include:

• Round over bits - Used to cut a rounded edge of a given radius.

• Ogee bits - The term "ogee" refers to an "S" shaped profile. Ogee's are available in a number of configurations; the Roman ogee bit pictured here is one of the most common

• Edge beading bits - Used to cut a 1/4 or 1/2 half circle profile called a "bead" into an edge or corner

• Cove router bits - used to cut a concave 1/4 circle into a material

Many edge forming bits include a pilot bearing. In most cases, they are used for final decoration of a project where edges are already established and can serve as the guide for the bit.

Molding Router Bits

Designed to architectural molding profiles, molding bits are typically larger than the basic edge bit. Molding bits may incorporate multiple basic edge forming profiles into a single bit. Because of their size, molding such bits most safely used in a router table.

The Classic Multi-Form Bit pictured here is designed to make several decorative profiles possible by combining basic profiles included in a single one.

Stile and Rail Bits

These are used in frame and panel construction, primarily for constructing frame members of cabinet and passage doors. These bits cut a decorative profile and a panel slot into the edge of door frame stock, and also a corresponding cut into the end of the material where the frame's "rail" (horizontal member) meets the profiled edge of the frame's "stile" (vertical member).

These are available either as a set of two "matched" bits, or as a single that can be arranged to cut both of the necessary components of the cope and stick joint.

Raised Panel Bits

These are often used in conjunction with the previous type to produce a profiled edge on a door panel. The profiled edge fits into the corresponding slot in the frame's stiles and rails. Raised panel bits are available in both a horizontal and vertical configuration. Horizontal raised cut the panel profile with the panel stock laying flat on the table. A vertical frame and panel bit is used to cut the panel profile with the stock tipped up on its edge and run along a fence.

Vertical raised are considered by many to be safer to operate because of their much smaller radius. A horizontal raised panel bit is necessary for panels with curved edges, such as those used in arched top or "cathedral" cabinet doors.

Joinery Bits

These include dovetail, drawer lock, finger joint, and lock miter bits. Each of these is used to produce a specialized type of precision joint. A dovetail is often used in combination with a dovetail jig to quickly and accurately produce dovetail joints for drawer boxes and other box-making projects.

How to Select the Best Router Bit

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Do it yourself housing KYDEX Part 1

!9# Do it yourself housing KYDEX Part 1

That gun and the combination of light you have, there is a nice solution for you. This is, of course, if you need to spend a lot of money and the wait for many weeks, he wants to complete the custom order. The good news is that you do, and you have to do any fancy equipment. You do not need a business, do not press a table saw, a jigsaw, a belt sander or expensive to get really good results. If you really want to base, is all that you need a toaster, some Kydex, aGun and leisure. Even if your first is not very good (I was terrible), in 16 weeks it takes to make your own holster, you become a pro it. All you need is Kydex press, a drill and drill bits, nails, rivet, some foam, some wood, a kind of pliers (or straps, which I saw), a tool like the Dremel, and some sandpaper. This is the basic, bare bones list. I'm sure some of you have more and better tools to help you more easily and produce superior results.The special equipment is knifekits.com (Kydex, rivets, etc.) available. I do not understand something to say to them, and I'm sure there are other alternatives to full service for these types of deliveries, but I've used a couple of times and have been pleased with their service. Good luck with your project! Feel free to ask questions, answers, tips and tricks, and success stories! Click here to see part 2! *********** UPDATE *********** Please view the video www.youtube.com "to perfect the process"...

Do it yourself housing KYDEX Part 1

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Trailer hitch installation - 2007 Mazda CX-7 - etrailer.com

!9# Trailer hitch installation - 2007 Mazda CX-7 - etrailer.com

Video www.etrailer.com are provided only as a guide. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specifications for complete information. Today we are going to install code 87 421 from Hidden Hitch, and we will post those on a 2007 Mazda CX-7 installation. In a first step is to reduce actual emissions, so you can see better pictures in which you go up to it. First of all, you move out of this muffler hanger right here, and this is the hook we have another mufflerare adopting, too. There is always a good idea to spray the rubber suspension to facilitate a lubricant to slide. And the rear suspension in the rubber, you can use a crowbar or other tool that I like to push off the rubber pad to the center of the vehicle. All rights are much more space for the installation of the clutch, and show you where the hook installed on the frame. The hook is installed in the two existing holes in the frame: these, andthis. This is in reality will be the same on both sides of the vehicle. We need our hardware is installed in the vehicle, and we have to do is log on to this hole here to extend our hardware to enter is not too much. Just to compare, you can see the block from the hole. It could be about 1 / 16 inch will need 1 / 4 inch, which are at room temperature to get there. You can do it with a chisel and a V in order to reduce, or you can use a Dremel...

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Stanley 91-988 1/4-Inch 3/8-Inch and 1/2-Inch Drive Mechanics Tool Set, 201-Piece

!9# Stanley 91-988 1/4-Inch 3/8-Inch and 1/2-Inch Drive Mechanics Tool Set, 201-Piece

Brand : Stanley | Rate : | Price : $83.74
Post Date : Sep 19, 2011 01:53:09 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days

Stanley 91-988 1/4-Inch 3/8-Inch and 1/2-Inch Drive Mechanics Tool Set, 201-Piece

Includes (10) 1/4-in Dr. 6 Pt. Sockets - SAE, (13) 1/4-in Dr. 6 Pt. Sockets - Metric, (10) 1/4-in Dr. 6 Pt. Deep Sockets - SAE, (11) 1/4-in Dr. 6 Pt. Deep Sockets - Metric, (9) 3/8-in Dr. 6 Pt. Sockets - SAE, (14) 3/8-in Dr. 6 Pt. Sockets - Metric, (5) 3/8-in Dr. 6 Pt. Deep Sockets - SAE, (3) 3/8-in Dr. 6 Pt. Deep Sockets - Metric, (6) 1/2-in Dr. 6 Pt. Sockets - SAE, (8) 1/2-in Dr. 6 Pt. Sockets - Metric, 1/4-in Dr. Pear Head Ratchet - Quick Release, 3/8-in Dr. Pear Head Ratchet - Quick Release, 1/2-in Dr. Pear Head Ratchet - Quick Release, 1/4-in Dr. F x 3/8-in M Adapter, 3/8-in Dr. F x 1/4-in M Adapter, 1/4-in Dr. Bit Adapter, 1/4-in Dr. Extension Bar, 3/8-in Dr. Extension Bar, (4) Combination SAE Wrenches, (4) Combination Metric Wrenches, (28) Hex Keys, (12) Nut Bits, (55) Bits, Blow Molded Carry Case

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